Had a sudden urge of writing something today... It's been a while since I last written anything on this blog.
Recently, I have been climbing really hard... Much harder than I used to climb before... And now, I'm working out within the 5.11b again. Did one of my favourite/fearful route "The Lost Monkey, 5.11" 2 weeks ago. Though I didn't manage to clean it like old days, But I'm happy to be able to at least complete the route.
And last Saturday, I tried another 5.11 at Takun on a Toprope and it had all my juices pumped out. I can still feel the pump today, haha... Haven't had that kind of feeling on my forearm for a loooonnngggg... looonnngggg time... And I'm glad that I still made it to the anchor after numerous hangdogs and rest. ^^
Takun, is where I started with multipitches above 200 meters. I did a route here name Pussy Key (9 pitches) about 8 years ago which go all the way to the summit of Bukit Takun. The images of the summit still flashes on my head from time to time. This was the route that made me realize that I wanted to go higher... At the same time, made me realize the only way to go higher is to put my foot into the journey of Big wall climbing...
However, the dream of attempting a Bigwall faded when I injured my right shoulder 4 years ago... I went on a really long rest as mentioned in the previous post. My dream fades more every time i felt the numb and pain on my shoulder when I rotates it.
So, after returning to climbing, I understood that I still wanted to do bigwall badly... And the passion burns again as before... I've never wanted to do a bigwall so badly in my life, and I actually made a long awaited appointment with my sifu in colorado to pay him a visit in September this year for a bigwall experience before I climb the Waking Dream in Tioman... I have never felt so excited again...
When decision and target made, journey towards achieving dream means Training... And trainig means climb more. So, that's what I did. 3 climbing session a week... I begun to regain my confidence, techniques, power and endurance again...
Throughout the journey, I met up with 2 relatively new climbers within the group that I think they are passionate. J(3 years climbing) and L(2 years climbing). I met J during a Charity Climbing event 3 years ago when I was still having my retirement to help up as a technical and safety advisor. Honestly speaking, I didn't expect her to be still climbing actively... But she did. And that, actually impressed me...
So, I tried to make the 2 young climber understand what they want in climbing... By understanding what they want, they could see their dream in climbing. J still remember who I was and she called me as Sijoe(Grandmaster), an unofficial title given by the group jokingly because I was the earliest climber among them.
I hope I can bring the 2 new climbers some vision and share some lights to them with my 15 years climbing experience. And I started bringing them to explore more into rock climbing other than single pitch sport routes. Yeah, I brought them to explore an entirely new experience... The multipitches climbing. I thought them the belay method, the anchoring system, the communication, and etc... And I hope, one day... I can bring them together to see my dreams in bigwall climbing...
In the process of teaching them and guiding them through, The journey named Training and climbing hard continues...
In the past 8 months, I had a few finger injuries and recovered. Until finally, about 2 months ago.... I injured my Right Ring finger internally. The flexor tendon... The injury rested me for 3 weeks with totally no climbing at all... I tried different treatment to enhance the recovery process.... Hot and iced water treatment, tissue replacement supplements, stops climbing... And it didn't really help much...
Nah..... fuck it and I started to climb again. Just get some tape on the fingers to prevent too much movement and stress will do... And I realize an old friend that rested me 4 years ago came back.... My Right Shoulder... Some crunching sound when I rotate my shoulder.... Not sure how bad it is, but i don't really feel much pain on it if I wasn't climbing too much... But the sound scares me...
The iced water treatment eventually became a nightmare... The pain and burning sensation caused by the iced water strikes into my head every time when I'm approaching home... Slowly, the fear of going home approaches...
Well, I’ve made it clear to myself… I’ll teach them everything I know… And I made them promised to pass on the knowledge and art of multipitches climbing. And I’ve also made a decision to return to the summit of Takun one more time with both of them. It may take a long time ascending 3 person, but I hope the achievement for them will inspire them to do more multipitches and pass the knowledge to more passionate climbers in future so that the art of multipitches climbing I’ve learn throughout the years will not fade on my hands.
Sigh… I really don’t know how much more abuse my fingers and shoulder can take before they scream again calling for a rest… But if they do, I don’t know how long I would be resting again this time… I really hope multipitches climbing within the group can continue to shine and this Takun experience can inspire them into doing more multipitches climbing. And also as their first step into higher climbing in future…
I love climbing… I promised myself that I won’t give up so easily... But everytime I felt pain on my fingers, the idea of taking a long rest came into my mind… And tears start running through my eyes…
If I have to rest again, It’s going to be another long rest… It’s a reality that hurts. And I have to accept it.
Thanks for reading, IF there is anyone reading it.
Have a nice day ahead…