6 months after the relationship broke down, on the 11/7/2014. I sent an sms regard to my ex-girlfriend asking about her condition. And it was sad to know that her father had a stroke attack a month ago and was bedridden since. The first thing I thought of myself was being helpless... All I can do is to hope that she's fine and able to take care of herself...
A month and half later, on the 25/08/2014. As I was driving in a traffic jam in the morning, I received a message from her telling me that her father passed away that morning and thanks for my concern previously... Tears ran down from my eyes and the next thing I realized, I've hit the car in front of me... I really don't know what I can do for her other than banking in some money to help her
Receiving the messaged kept me in my room after work for about a week... Didn't wanna go anywhere and not know what to do, I started cleaning up my room. And I found some stuff she left behind and I suddenly realized how a selfish bf I've been over the past 5 years. I found a dancing cow, an LED lastic that shoot to the sky and falls down with a beautiful swirling pattern and a bunch of DVDs... It's been 5 years almost 5 years we were together and she've been living in loneliness where she have to find her limited friends to walk around with her and buying toys for herself to makes herself happy and occupied.
I asked myself a few questions...
1) What have I done as a boyfriend of a girl whom loved me so much that she's willing to put down her pride and confessed to a man she loves.
2) How would it feel to have a boyfriend that has no time for her.
From her friends' point of view, her boyfriend is a caring and successful man whom buy her everything that she wanted including a smart phone, paying her car loan when she's in financial problem, buying her tires and rims when her tires went flat, servicing her car, sending her car for repair when her car involved in an accident... And all those things are money related.
But when we see things between 2 of us... what have I done to make her happy..? For the past 5 years, no travelling, no flowers, no hand drawn card and no time. Every women that I've loved or like have somehow received at least a piece of handcrafted art from me, be it a greeting card or an impromptu drawing on a coaster... But not her.. All women that I've loved or like have somehow received at least a bouquet of flowers from me, be it carnation, roses or sunflowers. For a man whom likes travelling and seeing the world, I've not even gone to the nearest city outside of KL with her..
For all the things I've done for her in the past 5 years are all money related... And now, she's facing her toughest days in life, all I can do is banking in some money for her...
Thanks to those whom is reading, though there might not be any...
Thanks.
Timz
Wednesday, 10 September 2014
Tuesday, 26 August 2014
Re"soul"ing my Anasazi...
It all started when my friend Shiwen, one of the owner of Madmonkeyz Bouldering Gym ordered 2 big sheets of Madrubber from Madrock. And I was given 2 pcs of Bottom soles and 2 pcs of Rand soles.
Everyone in our group got excited especially the older climbers like me due to the fact that we have too many old shoes that is left in the store untouched due to the sole condition that limits the climbing performance...
And we all took home 4 pcs of rubbers happily... So, what's next... None of us actually know what to do with the 4 pcs of rubber we took home, so we decided to ask Mr Google and Mrs Youtube to give us some hints of how to it should begin. There are tonnes of video and article about Climbing shoe resoling but non actually shares how the Rand resole is done. Guess it's a Secret Recipe where all the resolers refuse to share.
Anyway, Shiwen started off with his girlfriend's sister's shoe. And next, there are some tricky and creative attempts from Fey and Shang.... Different people came out with different idea and method of resoling.. So, everyone achieved different result along the way...
So, this is my step by step attempt with some pictures attached.
Picture above shows the hole on the Rand and the worn sole with round edge at the shoe tip.
First of all, I Cut off the bottom sole from the shoe carefully. I try to avoid any accident by cutting the inner sole which is the leather. Then, I brushed the the remaining to flatten the bottom , I then brushed off the rubber on the hole and other thin weak area to make it even thinner.
*Bare in mind, you only trim down the affected area. Not the entire rand. And you don't want to remove the rand completely... Just trim down.
On the new material, surface preparation is important. I use a metal brush to brush one of the surface that's ready for Contact Adhesive application.
Apply Contact adhesive on the rand and the prepared surface of the new rubber and patiently, wait for at least 30 minutes. Actually, this is the hardest part because Humans are impatient.

Wrap the rand rubber on top of the area which you trimmed. In this case, I overlap it on the untrimmed area. by a little. And next, trim the excess rubber which might cause difficulty in folding later. Then, you fold them onto the bottom. Please use force when folding in so that it follows the shape of the shoe.
At this point, you may realized the fold down part is not falt and fold a little. Grind it flat. Remember not to over grind it to remain the strength of the rubber.

Next, I prepared the bottom sole surface by doing the exact same thing u did when I prepare the the rand sole surface. I also grind the bottom surface one more time to make it smooth and flat. I then clean both surface which I prepared for Contact Adhesive application.
So, Contact Adhesive was applied at both soon to contact surface and waited for 30 minutes. And again, Patience is very important.
And we all took home 4 pcs of rubbers happily... So, what's next... None of us actually know what to do with the 4 pcs of rubber we took home, so we decided to ask Mr Google and Mrs Youtube to give us some hints of how to it should begin. There are tonnes of video and article about Climbing shoe resoling but non actually shares how the Rand resole is done. Guess it's a Secret Recipe where all the resolers refuse to share.
Anyway, Shiwen started off with his girlfriend's sister's shoe. And next, there are some tricky and creative attempts from Fey and Shang.... Different people came out with different idea and method of resoling.. So, everyone achieved different result along the way...
So, this is my step by step attempt with some pictures attached.
Picture above shows the hole on the Rand and the worn sole with round edge at the shoe tip.
First of all, I Cut off the bottom sole from the shoe carefully. I try to avoid any accident by cutting the inner sole which is the leather. Then, I brushed the the remaining to flatten the bottom , I then brushed off the rubber on the hole and other thin weak area to make it even thinner.
*Bare in mind, you only trim down the affected area. Not the entire rand. And you don't want to remove the rand completely... Just trim down.
On the new material, surface preparation is important. I use a metal brush to brush one of the surface that's ready for Contact Adhesive application.
Apply Contact adhesive on the rand and the prepared surface of the new rubber and patiently, wait for at least 30 minutes. Actually, this is the hardest part because Humans are impatient.

Wrap the rand rubber on top of the area which you trimmed. In this case, I overlap it on the untrimmed area. by a little. And next, trim the excess rubber which might cause difficulty in folding later. Then, you fold them onto the bottom. Please use force when folding in so that it follows the shape of the shoe.

Next, I prepared the bottom sole surface by doing the exact same thing u did when I prepare the the rand sole surface. I also grind the bottom surface one more time to make it smooth and flat. I then clean both surface which I prepared for Contact Adhesive application.
So, Contact Adhesive was applied at both soon to contact surface and waited for 30 minutes. And again, Patience is very important.
After wrapping the bottom with the new sole, I trim off the excess rubber according to the shoe shape. And the final step would be grinding off the edge of the rand to make them smooth and also grind off the bottom sole. Best is to eliminate any contact opening.
And finally... TADAAAA!!!!! This is my Old 5.10 Anasazi with new Soul...
Thank you for reading though there might not be any. Have a great day and happy trying.
Timz
Thank you for reading though there might not be any. Have a great day and happy trying.
Timz
Friday, 22 August 2014
"Because it's there... "-George Mallory
To all the climbers in the world, there is a name to remember other than Edmund Hillary, Norgay Tenzing, Chris Sharma and Babu Chiri Sherpa... George Herbert Mallory Leigh( 18 June 1886 - 8 June 1924) which was believed to have ascended Everest 29 years before The Edmund-Tenzing did.
George Mallory was asked once, "Why do you want to climb the Everest..?", and his answer was, "Because it's there..."
15 years ago, I started Rock Climbing... And after realizing that I appreciate the adventure and height than the grade, I started to learn more about climbing height and not difficulty... As I read more and more about rock climbing, I was bumped into an article, "Big Wall, the ultimate adventure for Rock Climbing"... It really triggered my interest. And the closest to start with is doing multipitches climbing. Soon, I started reading more and more about multipitches climbing and I dreamed about being the first among Malaysian Big Wall Climber. I began to read more and more about Big Wall Climbing and I emailed Scotty Nelson, the first ascend of the ONE AND ONLY Big Wall Route in Malaysia, The Waking Dream which was located at Tioman Island, Johor. We discussed about the route and I told him how much I wanted to climb that route...
Somehow in 2001 or 2002, A Malaysian team consist of 5 climbers which I know successfully seconded the Waking Dream. My dream of becoming the first shattered... But I was happy for them and I was glad that Malaysian did it... But I still wanted to climb the The Waking Dream so much...
2 years later, fate has destined me to bumped into my climbing mentor. Mr Anthony Bubb from Clolorado US due to his business trip to Singapore and he came all the way to Batu Caves to climb. And he told me he could climb the The Waking Dream with me... Tony is a known climber in Colorado Climbing community and Scotty Nelson have heard about him. They began discussing about The Waking Dreams and Tony was confident in completing it in 3 days with me. A year later, Tony asked me if I wanna do the Waking Dream in his next business trip to Singapore... I told him I was extremely interested, but I have limited experience on a big wall. So he asked me to look up for a book called Big Wall, written by John Middendorf... John Middendorf was the inventor of Portaledge, the founder of A5 Climbing Equipment, The first person ever ascended an A5 graded Big Wall, The only team ever ascended Trango Tower. I was so excited and started to preparing myself for the ultimate challenge... I went around MPH and POPULAR looking for the book, but I couldn't really find anything similar... So, I tried my luck looking for John and emailed him. To my suprise, he replied.... With the a scratch of the book as an attachment... I was so happy that I couldn't sleep that night... I didn't ever expect such a big name would respond to a small dream by a small person.
When date approaches, I realized that my Dream Shattered for the second time due to the Examination weeks that was scheduled on the day Tony visiting KL. The day came and we went out for some simple climb in Nanyang... On the day he left, He gave me a book Big Wall written by John Middendorf. At the back of the book, Tony wrote.. "Don't let the Waking Dream remain unawaken... Tony Bubb". Tears ran down from my eyes... I was touched and at the same time, also sad... For not being able climb The Waking Dream with the person I wanted to climb most with... Anyway, that was the last time I see Tony in person.
Several years down the road, I did tonnes of multipitches climbing with my closest climbing partner then, KF Lee which is actually my close friend's elder brother. And we did alot of crazy routes and even ascended one of the longest route back then in Selangor... Pussy Key which consist of 9 pitches and having a vertical height of approximately 200 meters from ground. It took us 11 hours to start and ended at where we begun...
Years passes and KF Lee slows down in climbing. And soon, more and more of my climbing partners stopped climbing due to some responsibility and obligation... And me too, soon left climbing 4 years ago due to my shoulder injury... A 3 years complete rest basically doing nothing on Saturday and Sunday.
So, as said in the first post, I was back in climbing about a year ago... And somehow, I manage to take another 2 enthusiast climber into the multipitch climbing... These 2 climbers are far more talented than I am and I am pretty sure they can go further than I was and I will be. Only if they can see their dream... And I hope I can bring them some new inspiration... And see their dream... But, I only manage to make one realizes his dream. I failed on the other one... Maybe Rock climbing and multipitches is not that important for her afterall... Maybe it's just me being over concern about other people's interest... Maybe I should just stop ranting around and get myself a life... Maybe I should stop pushing them because they climb on Saturday or Sunday because they have nothing better to do... haha... It was just me afterall.
Recently, I'm in the process of waking my dream again... I started to buy more and more gears to assist me in my Big Wall project that was scheduled to be on September but postponed to probably April. As planned, I will first make a visit to Colorado to meet up with my long unmet friend plus mentor... And we'll nail some big wall around Zion or Other part of Colorado. If time and financial permits, I will make a Florida to visit one of my friends migrated there from KL. Or, I might meet up with other climbers in California to try out some routes in Yosmite. And when I'm back, I am ready to call up Sharin to wake my unwaken dream...
Well, that's still just a plan until it materializes... But I will never allow it to just flew away just like how it did. If it failed this time, it better gonna be a pretty strong reason...
So, I begin collecting gears for my big wall so that I don't need to pay with my lungs and liver when the time comes... And I've been buying alot of gears.. Some online, and some from my friend whom owns a climbing proshop... He's also one of a person I taught once upon a time. He have been very supportive all the while to sponsor me some gears, some anchors, some chain and other maintenance we did at Nanyang and some other climbing sites. And one day he asked me,
SW: Tim, why are you buying so much gears...? U really want to climb The Waking Dream meh...
Me: Yeah... You knew I wanted to do it so badly back then right..? If I were to buy all the gears just to climb The Waking Dream, I would...
SW: Wah... Why want to climb Waking Dream and Bigwall so much..?
Me: Because it's there....
Thank you for reading, though there might not be any.... But do take care and have a great day ahead...
Cheers ^^
Timz
George Mallory was asked once, "Why do you want to climb the Everest..?", and his answer was, "Because it's there..."
15 years ago, I started Rock Climbing... And after realizing that I appreciate the adventure and height than the grade, I started to learn more about climbing height and not difficulty... As I read more and more about rock climbing, I was bumped into an article, "Big Wall, the ultimate adventure for Rock Climbing"... It really triggered my interest. And the closest to start with is doing multipitches climbing. Soon, I started reading more and more about multipitches climbing and I dreamed about being the first among Malaysian Big Wall Climber. I began to read more and more about Big Wall Climbing and I emailed Scotty Nelson, the first ascend of the ONE AND ONLY Big Wall Route in Malaysia, The Waking Dream which was located at Tioman Island, Johor. We discussed about the route and I told him how much I wanted to climb that route...
Somehow in 2001 or 2002, A Malaysian team consist of 5 climbers which I know successfully seconded the Waking Dream. My dream of becoming the first shattered... But I was happy for them and I was glad that Malaysian did it... But I still wanted to climb the The Waking Dream so much...
2 years later, fate has destined me to bumped into my climbing mentor. Mr Anthony Bubb from Clolorado US due to his business trip to Singapore and he came all the way to Batu Caves to climb. And he told me he could climb the The Waking Dream with me... Tony is a known climber in Colorado Climbing community and Scotty Nelson have heard about him. They began discussing about The Waking Dreams and Tony was confident in completing it in 3 days with me. A year later, Tony asked me if I wanna do the Waking Dream in his next business trip to Singapore... I told him I was extremely interested, but I have limited experience on a big wall. So he asked me to look up for a book called Big Wall, written by John Middendorf... John Middendorf was the inventor of Portaledge, the founder of A5 Climbing Equipment, The first person ever ascended an A5 graded Big Wall, The only team ever ascended Trango Tower. I was so excited and started to preparing myself for the ultimate challenge... I went around MPH and POPULAR looking for the book, but I couldn't really find anything similar... So, I tried my luck looking for John and emailed him. To my suprise, he replied.... With the a scratch of the book as an attachment... I was so happy that I couldn't sleep that night... I didn't ever expect such a big name would respond to a small dream by a small person.
When date approaches, I realized that my Dream Shattered for the second time due to the Examination weeks that was scheduled on the day Tony visiting KL. The day came and we went out for some simple climb in Nanyang... On the day he left, He gave me a book Big Wall written by John Middendorf. At the back of the book, Tony wrote.. "Don't let the Waking Dream remain unawaken... Tony Bubb". Tears ran down from my eyes... I was touched and at the same time, also sad... For not being able climb The Waking Dream with the person I wanted to climb most with... Anyway, that was the last time I see Tony in person.
Several years down the road, I did tonnes of multipitches climbing with my closest climbing partner then, KF Lee which is actually my close friend's elder brother. And we did alot of crazy routes and even ascended one of the longest route back then in Selangor... Pussy Key which consist of 9 pitches and having a vertical height of approximately 200 meters from ground. It took us 11 hours to start and ended at where we begun...
Years passes and KF Lee slows down in climbing. And soon, more and more of my climbing partners stopped climbing due to some responsibility and obligation... And me too, soon left climbing 4 years ago due to my shoulder injury... A 3 years complete rest basically doing nothing on Saturday and Sunday.
So, as said in the first post, I was back in climbing about a year ago... And somehow, I manage to take another 2 enthusiast climber into the multipitch climbing... These 2 climbers are far more talented than I am and I am pretty sure they can go further than I was and I will be. Only if they can see their dream... And I hope I can bring them some new inspiration... And see their dream... But, I only manage to make one realizes his dream. I failed on the other one... Maybe Rock climbing and multipitches is not that important for her afterall... Maybe it's just me being over concern about other people's interest... Maybe I should just stop ranting around and get myself a life... Maybe I should stop pushing them because they climb on Saturday or Sunday because they have nothing better to do... haha... It was just me afterall.
Recently, I'm in the process of waking my dream again... I started to buy more and more gears to assist me in my Big Wall project that was scheduled to be on September but postponed to probably April. As planned, I will first make a visit to Colorado to meet up with my long unmet friend plus mentor... And we'll nail some big wall around Zion or Other part of Colorado. If time and financial permits, I will make a Florida to visit one of my friends migrated there from KL. Or, I might meet up with other climbers in California to try out some routes in Yosmite. And when I'm back, I am ready to call up Sharin to wake my unwaken dream...
Well, that's still just a plan until it materializes... But I will never allow it to just flew away just like how it did. If it failed this time, it better gonna be a pretty strong reason...
So, I begin collecting gears for my big wall so that I don't need to pay with my lungs and liver when the time comes... And I've been buying alot of gears.. Some online, and some from my friend whom owns a climbing proshop... He's also one of a person I taught once upon a time. He have been very supportive all the while to sponsor me some gears, some anchors, some chain and other maintenance we did at Nanyang and some other climbing sites. And one day he asked me,
SW: Tim, why are you buying so much gears...? U really want to climb The Waking Dream meh...
Me: Yeah... You knew I wanted to do it so badly back then right..? If I were to buy all the gears just to climb The Waking Dream, I would...
SW: Wah... Why want to climb Waking Dream and Bigwall so much..?
Me: Because it's there....
Thank you for reading, though there might not be any.... But do take care and have a great day ahead...
Cheers ^^
Timz
Wednesday, 20 August 2014
Best things in life usually take place when u least expect them
Well... It's been some time... Life has been busy with everything... Anxiety, Climbing, Work, Business... etc... Just everything to make things short... Well, Guess that's life...
Recently, I'm back with insomnia and migraine... Crap, wose case scenario... Haha... Well, I've gone through worse... Not sure what causes this... But I have my way to do with my insomnia... Though I still can't sleep well, but I learnt to relax by spending 30min to an hour of personal time with my guitar... Trying to play some old songs and learning some new songs... singing to myself...
Hmm... just about a month back, I had a sudden urge of doing something which I believe i am talented in, but I haven't do for a real long time... Drawing and painting... It's not out of nowhere I suddenly wanted to draw and paint... It was to make a very special Birthday Card for someone special to me... Though I may not be very special to her... Haha...
It started when I was walking around in POPULAR Book store... And I saw some colour card... I bought a variety of them in different color and thickness... And I got myself a few different grade pencils, a pack of watercolors, some brushes, and a book of artblock... So, I went home and begin scratching.. scrapping... scratching... and scrapping.... It used to be so easy, so friendly... But it felt like a stranger to me now... Well, after weeks passes, and the birthday card plus comic was finally being presented to my dream girl on Thursday night... And I ordered a bouquet of roses to be sent to her office on Friday too...
Friday came and I called her... She was out from the office before my roses arrives.. Shit... And Saturday, she head North for her sisters' graduation with her family, Sunday was the actual graduation day and her birthday. So, she and her family extended the weekend and had a trip to Cameron and finaly back on Monday late evening... Well, I suspect the roses would be dead by the time she sees it. Or maybe the cleaner should have relocate it into a rubbish bin for attracting ants and produces odor... Too many question in my mind...
On Saturday evening as I was attempting to meet her at Kampar... And on my way, suddenly something told me to stop... Because I might be doing too much and it may scare her... So, I u turned and went home... However, I managed to call her and wished her Happy Birthday and got to know that she have yet to open the Birthday card... well, maybe it's not that special to her afterall, or there might be tonnes of idiots like me doing the same thing...
Somehow, I had a chat with one of my very close friend... She asked to meet up before she deliver her second baby which was scheduled to be on 10ish of September. But I couldn't make it on Saturday itself.
Sunday was a working day for me... It was an extremely hot day. Well, no messages, no reply, and not answering calls. Maybe I scared her or something. Work dismissed earlier than scheduled, so I called my friend for a dinner. And yeah, we went out for wantan mee and tongsui. Had a great dinner with lotsa laughter talking about the old days...
Monday came... was still worried if the roses survived the hot weekend. But there's nothing I can do. As usual, started my day with a morning wish to her... And didn't expect much. But instead of a reply from her, I received a message from my close friend. She delivered a baby boy... And both are safe... What a WOW on a Monday morning... The baby wanted to see the world 3 weeks ahead and it just came out. Look, Saturday, she wanted to meet up for a dinner and say let's meet up before the delivery but I couldn't make it. And Sunday we met up for a dinner and all of a sudden, Baby boy came out on Monday...
What a week to start with... Guess best things in life happen when u least expect them... And I think I should expect too much sometimes and just do what I've gotta do.... And let fate destine my journey...
Not sure if this will help in my migraine and insomnia... But it will at least, I guess it will loose some tense in my already saturated brain...
Have a nice day everyone. Thanks for reading though there might not be any... :-)
Tim
Recently, I'm back with insomnia and migraine... Crap, wose case scenario... Haha... Well, I've gone through worse... Not sure what causes this... But I have my way to do with my insomnia... Though I still can't sleep well, but I learnt to relax by spending 30min to an hour of personal time with my guitar... Trying to play some old songs and learning some new songs... singing to myself...
Hmm... just about a month back, I had a sudden urge of doing something which I believe i am talented in, but I haven't do for a real long time... Drawing and painting... It's not out of nowhere I suddenly wanted to draw and paint... It was to make a very special Birthday Card for someone special to me... Though I may not be very special to her... Haha...
It started when I was walking around in POPULAR Book store... And I saw some colour card... I bought a variety of them in different color and thickness... And I got myself a few different grade pencils, a pack of watercolors, some brushes, and a book of artblock... So, I went home and begin scratching.. scrapping... scratching... and scrapping.... It used to be so easy, so friendly... But it felt like a stranger to me now... Well, after weeks passes, and the birthday card plus comic was finally being presented to my dream girl on Thursday night... And I ordered a bouquet of roses to be sent to her office on Friday too...
Friday came and I called her... She was out from the office before my roses arrives.. Shit... And Saturday, she head North for her sisters' graduation with her family, Sunday was the actual graduation day and her birthday. So, she and her family extended the weekend and had a trip to Cameron and finaly back on Monday late evening... Well, I suspect the roses would be dead by the time she sees it. Or maybe the cleaner should have relocate it into a rubbish bin for attracting ants and produces odor... Too many question in my mind...
On Saturday evening as I was attempting to meet her at Kampar... And on my way, suddenly something told me to stop... Because I might be doing too much and it may scare her... So, I u turned and went home... However, I managed to call her and wished her Happy Birthday and got to know that she have yet to open the Birthday card... well, maybe it's not that special to her afterall, or there might be tonnes of idiots like me doing the same thing...
Somehow, I had a chat with one of my very close friend... She asked to meet up before she deliver her second baby which was scheduled to be on 10ish of September. But I couldn't make it on Saturday itself.
Sunday was a working day for me... It was an extremely hot day. Well, no messages, no reply, and not answering calls. Maybe I scared her or something. Work dismissed earlier than scheduled, so I called my friend for a dinner. And yeah, we went out for wantan mee and tongsui. Had a great dinner with lotsa laughter talking about the old days...
Monday came... was still worried if the roses survived the hot weekend. But there's nothing I can do. As usual, started my day with a morning wish to her... And didn't expect much. But instead of a reply from her, I received a message from my close friend. She delivered a baby boy... And both are safe... What a WOW on a Monday morning... The baby wanted to see the world 3 weeks ahead and it just came out. Look, Saturday, she wanted to meet up for a dinner and say let's meet up before the delivery but I couldn't make it. And Sunday we met up for a dinner and all of a sudden, Baby boy came out on Monday...
What a week to start with... Guess best things in life happen when u least expect them... And I think I should expect too much sometimes and just do what I've gotta do.... And let fate destine my journey...
Not sure if this will help in my migraine and insomnia... But it will at least, I guess it will loose some tense in my already saturated brain...
Have a nice day everyone. Thanks for reading though there might not be any... :-)
Tim
Thursday, 10 July 2014
Romance De Amor
It's been a 5 years since my first guitar broke... I thought I didn't have much time to play, so I didn't even bother to get a new one since I have not been playing it even before it breaks.
Recently, some classical music just ran through my brain... Beethoven's Symphony No 5, Mozart's Srenade No 13, and Pachelbel's Canon D. Listening to it makes the brain works better on calculations... Especially when I'm given an engineering problem that requires alot of calculations and creativity these days... And listening to those classical musics reminds me that I was a "Piccolo" player of 1st KL Boys Brigade 16 years ago. Wow, that was almost half my life ago... And I have a urge of holding the Flute again...
So last week, after the Flying Dutchman attempt, I went to a musical store around Cheras wanting get myself a Piccolo. Asking the person in charged for a Piccolo, he told me that those items require pre-order and deposits.
"Nah... Just get me a bamboo flute then..." I told the sales assistant... And after some searching, he told me that the bamboo flute is out of stock...
"Okay, then get me flute type recorder then..." Again, some searching and the answer was, "Ehh..? There was one yesterday. Where did it went..?"
"Hmm... So, tell me what do you have..?" And the sales assistant took out a YAMAHA box... Wow...!!! It was my dream brass flute 16 years ago...!!! I got excited and asked for the price...
"Bro, this one ah... hmm... RM2XXX..."
Shit, it's way out of my budget!!! Haiz... So, I ended up buying a RM12.00 YAMAHA plastic recorder... It isn't too bad...
Looking at my watch, I still have some time to spare, so I look around... And I saw this acoustic guitar that priced RM259. Hmm.... maybe it's time to get myself another guitar and I told the sales assistance to get me one of those... Like said... Sometimes, the best things happen when you least expect them to happen... I went into a musical store hoping to get myself a flute, I came out with a recorder and cheap guitar, and I'm very happy with it...
So, here I am, playing one of the very first classical I learnt 14 years ago... The first part of Romance De Amor with my cheap RM259 guitar.... Sorry if I've spoilt the song. I'm a lousy guitarist. I just enjoying doing what I wanna do...
Romance De Amour on youtube
Thank you for reading, watching and listening... If there is any. Have a great day ahead...
Timz
Recently, some classical music just ran through my brain... Beethoven's Symphony No 5, Mozart's Srenade No 13, and Pachelbel's Canon D. Listening to it makes the brain works better on calculations... Especially when I'm given an engineering problem that requires alot of calculations and creativity these days... And listening to those classical musics reminds me that I was a "Piccolo" player of 1st KL Boys Brigade 16 years ago. Wow, that was almost half my life ago... And I have a urge of holding the Flute again...
So last week, after the Flying Dutchman attempt, I went to a musical store around Cheras wanting get myself a Piccolo. Asking the person in charged for a Piccolo, he told me that those items require pre-order and deposits.
"Nah... Just get me a bamboo flute then..." I told the sales assistant... And after some searching, he told me that the bamboo flute is out of stock...
"Okay, then get me flute type recorder then..." Again, some searching and the answer was, "Ehh..? There was one yesterday. Where did it went..?"
"Hmm... So, tell me what do you have..?" And the sales assistant took out a YAMAHA box... Wow...!!! It was my dream brass flute 16 years ago...!!! I got excited and asked for the price...
"Bro, this one ah... hmm... RM2XXX..."
Shit, it's way out of my budget!!! Haiz... So, I ended up buying a RM12.00 YAMAHA plastic recorder... It isn't too bad...
Looking at my watch, I still have some time to spare, so I look around... And I saw this acoustic guitar that priced RM259. Hmm.... maybe it's time to get myself another guitar and I told the sales assistance to get me one of those... Like said... Sometimes, the best things happen when you least expect them to happen... I went into a musical store hoping to get myself a flute, I came out with a recorder and cheap guitar, and I'm very happy with it...
Thank you for reading, watching and listening... If there is any. Have a great day ahead...
Timz
Tuesday, 8 July 2014
Sailing on the Black Pearl
Good afternoon... Today is the 67th day since the Flexor tendon and ligament injury on my Right Ring Finger... Thing worked out pretty well and the finger recovery was good... Upon returning to climbing, I cleaned the Indecision, 6b+. Then, I finished another 6c on the following week. And last Saturday, I finished the Flying Dutchman, 6c+. An old classic 6c that upgraded to a 6c+ ever since the cement Pole for Gua Tanggang entrance was removed. Now, it requires a jump start and some campus moves in the beginning of the route.
The Flying Dutchman is a route that I wanted to do badly since the day I came back to climbing around end of August 2013. Last Saturday(5/7/2014), I was late to Nanyang due to some work and I reached there around 4:45pm. Upon reaching the outer section of Nanyang, my Old time climbing partner/buddy/friend/etc Kian Foh wa hanging on 4th clip of Flying Dutchman. That was a surprise to me as Kian Foh has never volunteered to lead a 6c by himself. And all the people around, just some newbies and 6b climbers as I know of... So, it was Karen whom was trying to attemp...
So, Kian Foh failed the attemp but manage to clip in to the 5th clip. So, since the rope was there and there isn't anyone that wanted to try. I got my harness on and tied in. Let's ROCK!!!
Kicking off the chair, I jumped to the first handhold and did some heel hook and campus moves. And I begin climbing to the crux. Had 2-3 falls and I got up to the anchor... Wow!!! I made it... Though I didn't clean the route, but I was happy that I finished the route...
Well... sometime I think... Maybe Forest Gump is right. Life is like a box of Chocolate, You'll never know what you gonna get... I have been preparing and waiting to climb this route for sometime, just to make sure I finish the route and leave nothing behind. But still, didn't have the courage to attempt the route. Somehow, it just came and I did it.... Sometime, the best thing usually happens unexpected... Well, the crux is still hard for me, but I manage to get my way up... ^^
However, Sunday was a lazy day.... Didn't climb until a rope was put on another short 6c which I still fail to finish on a top rope without falling. It's more of a balance climb with little crimps and shallows. And, on the attempt, I realized that my injury have not fully recover... I felt the pain again.... But just slight pain...
Well, I guess it didn't matter much... I'm back sailing on the Black Pearl again... And I will get the Flying Dutchman....
Thanks for reading, if there's anyone.... Have a nice day ahead... :)
Timz
The Flying Dutchman is a route that I wanted to do badly since the day I came back to climbing around end of August 2013. Last Saturday(5/7/2014), I was late to Nanyang due to some work and I reached there around 4:45pm. Upon reaching the outer section of Nanyang, my Old time climbing partner/buddy/friend/etc Kian Foh wa hanging on 4th clip of Flying Dutchman. That was a surprise to me as Kian Foh has never volunteered to lead a 6c by himself. And all the people around, just some newbies and 6b climbers as I know of... So, it was Karen whom was trying to attemp...
So, Kian Foh failed the attemp but manage to clip in to the 5th clip. So, since the rope was there and there isn't anyone that wanted to try. I got my harness on and tied in. Let's ROCK!!!
Kicking off the chair, I jumped to the first handhold and did some heel hook and campus moves. And I begin climbing to the crux. Had 2-3 falls and I got up to the anchor... Wow!!! I made it... Though I didn't clean the route, but I was happy that I finished the route...
Well... sometime I think... Maybe Forest Gump is right. Life is like a box of Chocolate, You'll never know what you gonna get... I have been preparing and waiting to climb this route for sometime, just to make sure I finish the route and leave nothing behind. But still, didn't have the courage to attempt the route. Somehow, it just came and I did it.... Sometime, the best thing usually happens unexpected... Well, the crux is still hard for me, but I manage to get my way up... ^^
However, Sunday was a lazy day.... Didn't climb until a rope was put on another short 6c which I still fail to finish on a top rope without falling. It's more of a balance climb with little crimps and shallows. And, on the attempt, I realized that my injury have not fully recover... I felt the pain again.... But just slight pain...
Well, I guess it didn't matter much... I'm back sailing on the Black Pearl again... And I will get the Flying Dutchman....
Thanks for reading, if there's anyone.... Have a nice day ahead... :)
Timz
Wednesday, 25 June 2014
Human Nature
Let's write something other than me and the rock today. It's 25/06/2014, 2 very important day to me... 25th June, is my first girlfriend's birthday... Well, it's not because I still love her deeply, it's because her birthday is a reversed of my birthday. So, it makes it easy for me to remember. Well secondly, it's the day one a great man's live came to an end 5 years ago... The Legendary Michael Jackson. Excuses aside, I just wanna write something today.
Over the past 3 days, our sky has been covered with thick layer of haze from unknown sources. And I started seeing posting on Facebook complaining about the haze... Something just came to my mind instantly, a month ago, almost 40% of the post on Facebook were complaining about the hot and dry weather we're experiencing for weeks.. And before that, 80% of the post I've read from Facebook were complaining about the raining season that lasted for months... How ironic...
So, when it rains... The people misses the Sun and complain about the rain. When the rain stops falling, people hated the Sun and start crying for rain... So, past 3 days, our Sun was covered by haze, and we neither have a drop of rain... And people started asking where's the Sun hiding and why isn't there any rain. And of course, people started to complain about the Haze...
Maybe it's human nature to complain about every damn thing that came into their life and causing them discomfort. Non human has been living on Earth for millions and millions of years without complain causes no destruction and alteration to the Earth Surface and atmosphere... But ever since Homo Sapiens invaded Earth, things has changed.
The soil was polluted, The atmosphere was polluted, The seawater was polluted, The ecosystem was polluted, and now... Even the atmospheric energy content was also fucked up by the radiation leak around the Globe. And still, non humans has been accepting it silently with no complain....
Sometimes I wonder, if cockroaches can speak, what would be the message they want to deliver to homo sapiens... And I my guess is...
"Dear human,
We've been living on Earth so much longer than your kind and we've been living happily with balance of everything. However, since we shared our land with your kind... you've been destroying every single thing existed and we, non humans are still tolerating your kind.
Dear human,
Your kind has labelled us to be disease carrier and was trying to hunt us to extinction... However:-
During our few million years of living together with other species, we've never know or never seen anything that is non-biodegradable before you created them.
For the past few million years, Our kind and other have never seen any heat that's so hot that can cut through any kind of material or burn them into ashes until your kind invented something called laser and radiation.
For the past few million years, we've never heard anything louder than the lightning until your kind invented something called machines that's capable of moving the mountains and destroying our home.
For the past few million years, we've never seen anything travelling faster than a falling rocks from mountains until your kind invented bullets and guns.
For the past few million years, we've never seen anything non living thing to fly until your kind learnt how to manipulate air movement.
Over the past 3 days, our sky has been covered with thick layer of haze from unknown sources. And I started seeing posting on Facebook complaining about the haze... Something just came to my mind instantly, a month ago, almost 40% of the post on Facebook were complaining about the hot and dry weather we're experiencing for weeks.. And before that, 80% of the post I've read from Facebook were complaining about the raining season that lasted for months... How ironic...
So, when it rains... The people misses the Sun and complain about the rain. When the rain stops falling, people hated the Sun and start crying for rain... So, past 3 days, our Sun was covered by haze, and we neither have a drop of rain... And people started asking where's the Sun hiding and why isn't there any rain. And of course, people started to complain about the Haze...
Maybe it's human nature to complain about every damn thing that came into their life and causing them discomfort. Non human has been living on Earth for millions and millions of years without complain causes no destruction and alteration to the Earth Surface and atmosphere... But ever since Homo Sapiens invaded Earth, things has changed.
The soil was polluted, The atmosphere was polluted, The seawater was polluted, The ecosystem was polluted, and now... Even the atmospheric energy content was also fucked up by the radiation leak around the Globe. And still, non humans has been accepting it silently with no complain....
Sometimes I wonder, if cockroaches can speak, what would be the message they want to deliver to homo sapiens... And I my guess is...
"Dear human,
We've been living on Earth so much longer than your kind and we've been living happily with balance of everything. However, since we shared our land with your kind... you've been destroying every single thing existed and we, non humans are still tolerating your kind.
Dear human,
Your kind has labelled us to be disease carrier and was trying to hunt us to extinction... However:-
During our few million years of living together with other species, we've never know or never seen anything that is non-biodegradable before you created them.
For the past few million years, Our kind and other have never seen any heat that's so hot that can cut through any kind of material or burn them into ashes until your kind invented something called laser and radiation.
For the past few million years, we've never heard anything louder than the lightning until your kind invented something called machines that's capable of moving the mountains and destroying our home.
For the past few million years, we've never seen anything travelling faster than a falling rocks from mountains until your kind invented bullets and guns.
For the past few million years, we've never seen anything non living thing to fly until your kind learnt how to manipulate air movement.
For the past few million years, we've never hunt other species with the purpose other than food until your kind invented Fashion.
For the past few million years, everything our kind is eating has been organic and healthy. And our kind has cause no illness to other species until you alter our food and causes our kind to mutate. And now your kind has labelled my kind as disease carrier and trying to hunt us to extinction.
Dear human,
We've been tolerating your kind for the past few thousand years just because you wrote in a book claiming your kind to be the perfect creation of God and WE, NON HUMAN, including the Angels shall bow to your kind and tolerate every damn problem your kind has created.
Your kind has been blaming every single damn thing about our kind, other species, the Sun, the Moon, and almost everything that you see except your own kind... If you and your kind is so unsatisfied with our home your kind called Earth, please... Get the hell out of here and leave us with peace and harmony....
Thanks.."
Well, I'm not really sure if this is what the cockroaches wanted to tell us... But according to the fossil found, cockroaches is the Oldest surviving species found unchanged in terms of shape and structure that has witness the history of Earth...
We say save the sea, but we dive with Sunblocks and kills the corals.
We buy handcrafted wooden key chain written "Save the Forest"
We organize fund raising event for the animals and wildlife while wearing our crocodile leather shoes
We send out paper templates with printed "Save the Forest"
Maybe it's human nature to be hypocrite and does everything that we've been opposing.
Thank you for reading, if there's any... May God bless you.
Have a nice day ahead.
Timz
Dear human,
We've been tolerating your kind for the past few thousand years just because you wrote in a book claiming your kind to be the perfect creation of God and WE, NON HUMAN, including the Angels shall bow to your kind and tolerate every damn problem your kind has created.
Your kind has been blaming every single damn thing about our kind, other species, the Sun, the Moon, and almost everything that you see except your own kind... If you and your kind is so unsatisfied with our home your kind called Earth, please... Get the hell out of here and leave us with peace and harmony....
Thanks.."
Well, I'm not really sure if this is what the cockroaches wanted to tell us... But according to the fossil found, cockroaches is the Oldest surviving species found unchanged in terms of shape and structure that has witness the history of Earth...
We say save the sea, but we dive with Sunblocks and kills the corals.
We buy handcrafted wooden key chain written "Save the Forest"
We organize fund raising event for the animals and wildlife while wearing our crocodile leather shoes
We send out paper templates with printed "Save the Forest"
Maybe it's human nature to be hypocrite and does everything that we've been opposing.
Thank you for reading, if there's any... May God bless you.
Have a nice day ahead.
Timz
Sunday, 22 June 2014
50 Days after the Finger Injury...
It's exactly 50 days after the rescue of Joc. The last day I actually climbed. It's the longest 50 days in my life. Partially due to not able to climb. Partially missing Joc badly on rock.
In the past 50 days, I've kept myself updated with things happening within my group of climbing friends and her. And I'm glad to know that she's improving in her climbing moves and strength....
Hoever, about one and a half week ago. Joc had a rope burn injury from climbing at Camp 5. It was a quite bad burn... Got her some meds and cream for recovery.... I just hope she'll get well as soon as possible. I assume from now, she've already built a fear of falling within her...
It's a matter of time a climber learn a rope burn lesson and be more careful in future while handling the rope during a climb. Some is lucky enough to learn it through through their friends... Some may not be that lucky and experienced it themselves. In this case, Joc was the example.
It felt painful to know that she's injured. But it's a lesson a climber has to go through and make them one level higher. Again... In this case, she was the unlucky role model to show people a bad example of handling the rope in climbing...
I really want to be there when she needed the guidance... But it was too late to know about the injury after the incident....
So, yesterday... A friend asked me to be there to observe her improvement myself... But i wasn't sure if my return will again bring some kind of pressure to her... And I'm not sure if the pressure is a good or a bad thing. Anyway, I think it's time to give it a try to check if my fingers are OK... So, I repacked my gears and load it into my trunk.
Dawn settles and the Sun rises. And I was ready to face the rock again....
As usual, a cup of coffee in the stall nearby my house... And I started moving to Nanyang... Alone... Upon reaching, I set up my hammock, and lied down for some rest... Looking at the rock face that I've missed for so long. Appreciating every textures on the face that I used to call hand and foot holds.
The day became busy when more people of the group turned up and started climbing...
SO, there you go.... Afer 50 days of complete resting. I was glad that I can still clean Indecision, 6b+ and Few more hangers, 6a+.
And here I am... I'm back for more action...
Thank you for reading... If there is any.... Have a good day ahead.
In the past 50 days, I've kept myself updated with things happening within my group of climbing friends and her. And I'm glad to know that she's improving in her climbing moves and strength....
Hoever, about one and a half week ago. Joc had a rope burn injury from climbing at Camp 5. It was a quite bad burn... Got her some meds and cream for recovery.... I just hope she'll get well as soon as possible. I assume from now, she've already built a fear of falling within her...
It's a matter of time a climber learn a rope burn lesson and be more careful in future while handling the rope during a climb. Some is lucky enough to learn it through through their friends... Some may not be that lucky and experienced it themselves. In this case, Joc was the example.
It felt painful to know that she's injured. But it's a lesson a climber has to go through and make them one level higher. Again... In this case, she was the unlucky role model to show people a bad example of handling the rope in climbing...
I really want to be there when she needed the guidance... But it was too late to know about the injury after the incident....
So, yesterday... A friend asked me to be there to observe her improvement myself... But i wasn't sure if my return will again bring some kind of pressure to her... And I'm not sure if the pressure is a good or a bad thing. Anyway, I think it's time to give it a try to check if my fingers are OK... So, I repacked my gears and load it into my trunk.
Dawn settles and the Sun rises. And I was ready to face the rock again....
As usual, a cup of coffee in the stall nearby my house... And I started moving to Nanyang... Alone... Upon reaching, I set up my hammock, and lied down for some rest... Looking at the rock face that I've missed for so long. Appreciating every textures on the face that I used to call hand and foot holds.
The day became busy when more people of the group turned up and started climbing...
SO, there you go.... Afer 50 days of complete resting. I was glad that I can still clean Indecision, 6b+ and Few more hangers, 6a+.
And here I am... I'm back for more action...
Thank you for reading... If there is any.... Have a good day ahead.
Thursday, 8 May 2014
Back to to complete resting mode...
3rd of May 2014, A beautiful Saturday morning... I packed up my stuff and meet up with a friend of mine for the usual weekend climbing session. Knowing that my finger Right Ring Finger will not take anymore hard strain and forces, I packed up my jumars and static rope for some light jumar activities.
Reached Nanyang with a welcome McDonald's Sundae cone from a young lady name Samantha. I felt blessed surrounding with people whom cares about me.
While setting up my hammock, I asked Martin to set up a fix line for jumar activity. It's a very short jumar practice. Line fixed and I was lazy to do anything else, so I lie on my hammock and started playing music. Another friend reaches and I started teaching him the jumar technique with the etriers... Had a few ascends on the 7meters line and came down...
Walking out to my car, my dream girl arrived... Wow, it must be my lucky day... Greeted her and handed her a bottle of Leung Sum Sou(ginseng) which I bought the day before. And we headed to the climbing site again. Well, back to my hammock, chilling out. A new friend joined us for climbing session for the first time. I prepared a pair of shoe and a chalkbag for him and I hooked him into my Reverso.
He started climbing and I started belaying him. Quarter way up the route, he gave up. But the whole group of people was giving moral support and motivation to the friend so that he complete at least one climb before he leave and decides weather to continue or give up in this sport. And I pulled myself up as a counter weight in order to lighten his body weight. At the same time, I kicked myself on the rock surface enjoying my swing like a pendulum. 30mins passed and he finally made his way up.
So, Joc started leading Scotch on the Rock(extended), 6b... She fell on the second clip and I suspected something is not right with her today... As she proceeded to the 3rd clip, which is where the final crux is... For some some reason unknown even to myself, I asked her to come down while she was hanging on the 3rd clip. But she asked for another try before she gave up... However, things turned ugly when she was making her way up. It was already too late when I realize where she was.... She's already at the top edge of the corner of the Open Book climb. She was stucked within the corner and unable to come out. If she falls, it's going to be a real big swing... If she stays there, it's the matter of time her hands get pumped up and she'll still fall and swing.
Realizing that the situation isn't gonna get better, I immediately put on my harness and taped my ring fingers together with my middle finger as a support to my ring finger, and asked Wai to belay me... I didn't wanna waste time attempting scotch on the rock, so I just lead the route the new guy climbed which shares the same anchor to the first part of Scotch On The Rock(SOTR)... But it's gonna be a HUGE TRAVERSE to the anchor of the extension of SOTR. But there's just no time to waste, I just cross over and clipped onto the 3rd clip.... And there, I hold the quickdraw and pulled myself up to reach for the big jug, then 2 finger pocket, and finally the main jug we used to clip on the anchor...
Looking down to Joc, my heart shattered into pieces... Her face was pale, and she was sweating alot.... Tear was flowing from her eyes... and then mine... And her both hands were holding onto the top jug of Open Book, shivering.... I slowly took her rope and clipped it onto the shared anchor between the two routes and asked Seetho to tight her rope... The rope tightened and I asked Joc to come out slowly... Which she still didn't dare to move... And slowly, I hold her hands and pulled her out... And finally, she got herself out from the edge and lowered to the ground... Though on the floor, she was still stunned and unable to untie a figure of 8 knot. Knowing that she's on the ground safely, I unclipped her rope from the anchor and clipped mine onto the anchor...
Crap, looking at my rope, it's pain in the ass to retrieve the quickdraws due to the massive traversing I've made while climbing the route... So, the belayer lowered me and I pulled the rope to move horizontally in order to reach for the quickdraws. While pulling the rope, I realized that I couldn't really grap the rope tightly with my right hand... Gosh, I just further injured my tendon.... Maybe it was the adrenaline that kept me going and not feeling the pain... But now, the adrenaline effect has gone... Without caring much about the pain, I continue pulling myself to the quickdraw one by one and finally, I came down.
I went to Joc, looking at her. She was still in shock... I tried to comfort her, but she kept avoiding me... I felt a crack in my heart... and my eyed went watery... Anyway, she's safe now and I packed my gear and went to the car...
While walking under the rain, I made a decision to rest completely for some time... I understood that I have to rest early and recover early... There's someone I have to take care of...
And while writing this article, I'm already back to complete resting mode.
Thank you for reading... If there's any...
Have a great day ahead.
Reached Nanyang with a welcome McDonald's Sundae cone from a young lady name Samantha. I felt blessed surrounding with people whom cares about me.
While setting up my hammock, I asked Martin to set up a fix line for jumar activity. It's a very short jumar practice. Line fixed and I was lazy to do anything else, so I lie on my hammock and started playing music. Another friend reaches and I started teaching him the jumar technique with the etriers... Had a few ascends on the 7meters line and came down...
Walking out to my car, my dream girl arrived... Wow, it must be my lucky day... Greeted her and handed her a bottle of Leung Sum Sou(ginseng) which I bought the day before. And we headed to the climbing site again. Well, back to my hammock, chilling out. A new friend joined us for climbing session for the first time. I prepared a pair of shoe and a chalkbag for him and I hooked him into my Reverso.
He started climbing and I started belaying him. Quarter way up the route, he gave up. But the whole group of people was giving moral support and motivation to the friend so that he complete at least one climb before he leave and decides weather to continue or give up in this sport. And I pulled myself up as a counter weight in order to lighten his body weight. At the same time, I kicked myself on the rock surface enjoying my swing like a pendulum. 30mins passed and he finally made his way up.
So, Joc started leading Scotch on the Rock(extended), 6b... She fell on the second clip and I suspected something is not right with her today... As she proceeded to the 3rd clip, which is where the final crux is... For some some reason unknown even to myself, I asked her to come down while she was hanging on the 3rd clip. But she asked for another try before she gave up... However, things turned ugly when she was making her way up. It was already too late when I realize where she was.... She's already at the top edge of the corner of the Open Book climb. She was stucked within the corner and unable to come out. If she falls, it's going to be a real big swing... If she stays there, it's the matter of time her hands get pumped up and she'll still fall and swing.
Realizing that the situation isn't gonna get better, I immediately put on my harness and taped my ring fingers together with my middle finger as a support to my ring finger, and asked Wai to belay me... I didn't wanna waste time attempting scotch on the rock, so I just lead the route the new guy climbed which shares the same anchor to the first part of Scotch On The Rock(SOTR)... But it's gonna be a HUGE TRAVERSE to the anchor of the extension of SOTR. But there's just no time to waste, I just cross over and clipped onto the 3rd clip.... And there, I hold the quickdraw and pulled myself up to reach for the big jug, then 2 finger pocket, and finally the main jug we used to clip on the anchor...
Looking down to Joc, my heart shattered into pieces... Her face was pale, and she was sweating alot.... Tear was flowing from her eyes... and then mine... And her both hands were holding onto the top jug of Open Book, shivering.... I slowly took her rope and clipped it onto the shared anchor between the two routes and asked Seetho to tight her rope... The rope tightened and I asked Joc to come out slowly... Which she still didn't dare to move... And slowly, I hold her hands and pulled her out... And finally, she got herself out from the edge and lowered to the ground... Though on the floor, she was still stunned and unable to untie a figure of 8 knot. Knowing that she's on the ground safely, I unclipped her rope from the anchor and clipped mine onto the anchor...
Crap, looking at my rope, it's pain in the ass to retrieve the quickdraws due to the massive traversing I've made while climbing the route... So, the belayer lowered me and I pulled the rope to move horizontally in order to reach for the quickdraws. While pulling the rope, I realized that I couldn't really grap the rope tightly with my right hand... Gosh, I just further injured my tendon.... Maybe it was the adrenaline that kept me going and not feeling the pain... But now, the adrenaline effect has gone... Without caring much about the pain, I continue pulling myself to the quickdraw one by one and finally, I came down.
I went to Joc, looking at her. She was still in shock... I tried to comfort her, but she kept avoiding me... I felt a crack in my heart... and my eyed went watery... Anyway, she's safe now and I packed my gear and went to the car...
While walking under the rain, I made a decision to rest completely for some time... I understood that I have to rest early and recover early... There's someone I have to take care of...
And while writing this article, I'm already back to complete resting mode.
Thank you for reading... If there's any...
Have a great day ahead.
Friday, 2 May 2014
Success and defeat...
It was a great climbing day on a beautiful labour day... I was supposed to climb a multi-pitches route with Joc... well, things didn't turned out quite well... she overslept and I reached Damai earlier than anyone from my group...
Reaching Damai, I met up with a climber I knew, but not too close. We started chitchatting and i got myself prepared for somw short routes. I found an interesting route that's located furthest Right on Damai Wall... not sure abt the name, but it's a 6c. I geared up and started leading. Well, expected it to be difficult... It's a 6c.
I did't manage to clean the route, but I still manage tonput up the rope to the anchor. So, a few friends tried the route on toprope hut failed. Then, I tried the route on toprope and to my suprised, I did it quite clean without any fall, neither did I hang on the rope. Wow...!!! It was another 6c into the list. Felt good on the success though the little right hand open crimp was kinda straining...
Put myself into resting mode and more climbers joined in... 2 of the new talented climbers joined the game. But somehow defeated. So, I went over to demonstrate the moves... on this 3rd try was where i strained my ring finger again.... after overcoming the crux, my right hand let go by itself due to the pain on the ring finger...
I came down immediately, and ran away from the crowd to hide the tears runnjng down from my eyes reminding myself that I needed a rest which I did not expect to come so soon.
I took off my harness and ungeared myself. Lying on thr hammock covering my face with my shirt... feeling defeated.
Moments later, Joc turned up and felt embarrassed looking at me. Not knowing that my finger were injured again causing me to be emotional, she thought her inpunctuality causes me to be in bad mood. She kept walking ard me trying to apologize. And i have to keep avoiding to hide my tears...
She tried a few toprope set by other climbers before I could manage my emotion again. I geared up again, rolled up my fingers with tapes and I leaded I route that I'm familliar with... A long classic 25m route. Monsoon, 6a for them to try.
Ok, weather was growling. But I still called Joc to get herself prepared for a multipitches climb. And we did. After having a brief refreshment on setting up anchor and belay system, I started leading the Good Onion, 6a, 6a, 6a+.
As I climbed, the finger pain was manageable and we did it up to the second pitch. Though I have to spend some time explaing to her on the anchor and belay system on a multipitch climb, we still made it and she did quite a good job setting up the anchor all ny her own... ^^ which makes me happy enough to forget the pain on my finger temporrarily.
We descended amd called it a day. Though I furthet injured my ring finger, but I was happy to be able to trade some knowledge and concentration from Joc.
2 success and one defeat, it was still a good climbing day... though i might be forced to rest earlier...
Thanks for reading. IF there is anyone.
Have a greay day ahead.
It was a great climbing day on a beautiful labour day... I was supposed to climb a multi-pitches route with Joc... well, things didn't turned out quite well... she overslept and I reached Damai earlier than anyone from my group...
Reaching Damai, I met up with a climber I knew, but not too close. We started chitchatting and i got myself prepared for somw short routes. I found an interesting route that's located furthest Right on Damai Wall... not sure abt the name, but it's a 6c. I geared up and started leading. Well, expected it to be difficult... It's a 6c.
I did't manage to clean the route, but I still manage tonput up the rope to the anchor. So, a few friends tried the route on toprope hut failed. Then, I tried the route on toprope and to my suprised, I did it quite clean without any fall, neither did I hang on the rope. Wow...!!! It was another 6c into the list. Felt good on the success though the little right hand open crimp was kinda straining...
Put myself into resting mode and more climbers joined in... 2 of the new talented climbers joined the game. But somehow defeated. So, I went over to demonstrate the moves... on this 3rd try was where i strained my ring finger again.... after overcoming the crux, my right hand let go by itself due to the pain on the ring finger...
I came down immediately, and ran away from the crowd to hide the tears runnjng down from my eyes reminding myself that I needed a rest which I did not expect to come so soon.
I took off my harness and ungeared myself. Lying on thr hammock covering my face with my shirt... feeling defeated.
Moments later, Joc turned up and felt embarrassed looking at me. Not knowing that my finger were injured again causing me to be emotional, she thought her inpunctuality causes me to be in bad mood. She kept walking ard me trying to apologize. And i have to keep avoiding to hide my tears...
She tried a few toprope set by other climbers before I could manage my emotion again. I geared up again, rolled up my fingers with tapes and I leaded I route that I'm familliar with... A long classic 25m route. Monsoon, 6a for them to try.
Ok, weather was growling. But I still called Joc to get herself prepared for a multipitches climb. And we did. After having a brief refreshment on setting up anchor and belay system, I started leading the Good Onion, 6a, 6a, 6a+.
As I climbed, the finger pain was manageable and we did it up to the second pitch. Though I have to spend some time explaing to her on the anchor and belay system on a multipitch climb, we still made it and she did quite a good job setting up the anchor all ny her own... ^^ which makes me happy enough to forget the pain on my finger temporrarily.
We descended amd called it a day. Though I furthet injured my ring finger, but I was happy to be able to trade some knowledge and concentration from Joc.
2 success and one defeat, it was still a good climbing day... though i might be forced to rest earlier...
Thanks for reading. IF there is anyone.
Have a greay day ahead.
Monday, 21 April 2014
Had a sudden urge of writing something today... It's been a while since I last written anything on this blog.
Recently, I have been climbing really hard... Much harder than I used to climb before... And now, I'm working out within the 5.11b again. Did one of my favourite/fearful route "The Lost Monkey, 5.11" 2 weeks ago. Though I didn't manage to clean it like old days, But I'm happy to be able to at least complete the route.
And last Saturday, I tried another 5.11 at Takun on a Toprope and it had all my juices pumped out. I can still feel the pump today, haha... Haven't had that kind of feeling on my forearm for a loooonnngggg... looonnngggg time... And I'm glad that I still made it to the anchor after numerous hangdogs and rest. ^^
Takun, is where I started with multipitches above 200 meters. I did a route here name Pussy Key (9 pitches) about 8 years ago which go all the way to the summit of Bukit Takun. The images of the summit still flashes on my head from time to time. This was the route that made me realize that I wanted to go higher... At the same time, made me realize the only way to go higher is to put my foot into the journey of Big wall climbing...
However, the dream of attempting a Bigwall faded when I injured my right shoulder 4 years ago... I went on a really long rest as mentioned in the previous post. My dream fades more every time i felt the numb and pain on my shoulder when I rotates it.
So, after returning to climbing, I understood that I still wanted to do bigwall badly... And the passion burns again as before... I've never wanted to do a bigwall so badly in my life, and I actually made a long awaited appointment with my sifu in colorado to pay him a visit in September this year for a bigwall experience before I climb the Waking Dream in Tioman... I have never felt so excited again...
When decision and target made, journey towards achieving dream means Training... And trainig means climb more. So, that's what I did. 3 climbing session a week... I begun to regain my confidence, techniques, power and endurance again...
Throughout the journey, I met up with 2 relatively new climbers within the group that I think they are passionate. J(3 years climbing) and L(2 years climbing). I met J during a Charity Climbing event 3 years ago when I was still having my retirement to help up as a technical and safety advisor. Honestly speaking, I didn't expect her to be still climbing actively... But she did. And that, actually impressed me...
So, I tried to make the 2 young climber understand what they want in climbing... By understanding what they want, they could see their dream in climbing. J still remember who I was and she called me as Sijoe(Grandmaster), an unofficial title given by the group jokingly because I was the earliest climber among them.
I hope I can bring the 2 new climbers some vision and share some lights to them with my 15 years climbing experience. And I started bringing them to explore more into rock climbing other than single pitch sport routes. Yeah, I brought them to explore an entirely new experience... The multipitches climbing. I thought them the belay method, the anchoring system, the communication, and etc... And I hope, one day... I can bring them together to see my dreams in bigwall climbing...
In the process of teaching them and guiding them through, The journey named Training and climbing hard continues...
In the past 8 months, I had a few finger injuries and recovered. Until finally, about 2 months ago.... I injured my Right Ring finger internally. The flexor tendon... The injury rested me for 3 weeks with totally no climbing at all... I tried different treatment to enhance the recovery process.... Hot and iced water treatment, tissue replacement supplements, stops climbing... And it didn't really help much...
Nah..... fuck it and I started to climb again. Just get some tape on the fingers to prevent too much movement and stress will do... And I realize an old friend that rested me 4 years ago came back.... My Right Shoulder... Some crunching sound when I rotate my shoulder.... Not sure how bad it is, but i don't really feel much pain on it if I wasn't climbing too much... But the sound scares me...
The iced water treatment eventually became a nightmare... The pain and burning sensation caused by the iced water strikes into my head every time when I'm approaching home... Slowly, the fear of going home approaches...
Well, I’ve made it clear to myself… I’ll teach them everything I know… And I made them promised to pass on the knowledge and art of multipitches climbing. And I’ve also made a decision to return to the summit of Takun one more time with both of them. It may take a long time ascending 3 person, but I hope the achievement for them will inspire them to do more multipitches and pass the knowledge to more passionate climbers in future so that the art of multipitches climbing I’ve learn throughout the years will not fade on my hands.
Sigh… I really don’t know how much more abuse my fingers and shoulder can take before they scream again calling for a rest… But if they do, I don’t know how long I would be resting again this time… I really hope multipitches climbing within the group can continue to shine and this Takun experience can inspire them into doing more multipitches climbing. And also as their first step into higher climbing in future…
I love climbing… I promised myself that I won’t give up so easily... But everytime I felt pain on my fingers, the idea of taking a long rest came into my mind… And tears start running through my eyes…
If I have to rest again, It’s going to be another long rest… It’s a reality that hurts. And I have to accept it.
Thanks for reading, IF there is anyone reading it.
Have a nice day ahead…
Recently, I have been climbing really hard... Much harder than I used to climb before... And now, I'm working out within the 5.11b again. Did one of my favourite/fearful route "The Lost Monkey, 5.11" 2 weeks ago. Though I didn't manage to clean it like old days, But I'm happy to be able to at least complete the route.
And last Saturday, I tried another 5.11 at Takun on a Toprope and it had all my juices pumped out. I can still feel the pump today, haha... Haven't had that kind of feeling on my forearm for a loooonnngggg... looonnngggg time... And I'm glad that I still made it to the anchor after numerous hangdogs and rest. ^^
Takun, is where I started with multipitches above 200 meters. I did a route here name Pussy Key (9 pitches) about 8 years ago which go all the way to the summit of Bukit Takun. The images of the summit still flashes on my head from time to time. This was the route that made me realize that I wanted to go higher... At the same time, made me realize the only way to go higher is to put my foot into the journey of Big wall climbing...
However, the dream of attempting a Bigwall faded when I injured my right shoulder 4 years ago... I went on a really long rest as mentioned in the previous post. My dream fades more every time i felt the numb and pain on my shoulder when I rotates it.
So, after returning to climbing, I understood that I still wanted to do bigwall badly... And the passion burns again as before... I've never wanted to do a bigwall so badly in my life, and I actually made a long awaited appointment with my sifu in colorado to pay him a visit in September this year for a bigwall experience before I climb the Waking Dream in Tioman... I have never felt so excited again...
When decision and target made, journey towards achieving dream means Training... And trainig means climb more. So, that's what I did. 3 climbing session a week... I begun to regain my confidence, techniques, power and endurance again...
Throughout the journey, I met up with 2 relatively new climbers within the group that I think they are passionate. J(3 years climbing) and L(2 years climbing). I met J during a Charity Climbing event 3 years ago when I was still having my retirement to help up as a technical and safety advisor. Honestly speaking, I didn't expect her to be still climbing actively... But she did. And that, actually impressed me...
So, I tried to make the 2 young climber understand what they want in climbing... By understanding what they want, they could see their dream in climbing. J still remember who I was and she called me as Sijoe(Grandmaster), an unofficial title given by the group jokingly because I was the earliest climber among them.
I hope I can bring the 2 new climbers some vision and share some lights to them with my 15 years climbing experience. And I started bringing them to explore more into rock climbing other than single pitch sport routes. Yeah, I brought them to explore an entirely new experience... The multipitches climbing. I thought them the belay method, the anchoring system, the communication, and etc... And I hope, one day... I can bring them together to see my dreams in bigwall climbing...
In the process of teaching them and guiding them through, The journey named Training and climbing hard continues...
In the past 8 months, I had a few finger injuries and recovered. Until finally, about 2 months ago.... I injured my Right Ring finger internally. The flexor tendon... The injury rested me for 3 weeks with totally no climbing at all... I tried different treatment to enhance the recovery process.... Hot and iced water treatment, tissue replacement supplements, stops climbing... And it didn't really help much...
Nah..... fuck it and I started to climb again. Just get some tape on the fingers to prevent too much movement and stress will do... And I realize an old friend that rested me 4 years ago came back.... My Right Shoulder... Some crunching sound when I rotate my shoulder.... Not sure how bad it is, but i don't really feel much pain on it if I wasn't climbing too much... But the sound scares me...
The iced water treatment eventually became a nightmare... The pain and burning sensation caused by the iced water strikes into my head every time when I'm approaching home... Slowly, the fear of going home approaches...
Well, I’ve made it clear to myself… I’ll teach them everything I know… And I made them promised to pass on the knowledge and art of multipitches climbing. And I’ve also made a decision to return to the summit of Takun one more time with both of them. It may take a long time ascending 3 person, but I hope the achievement for them will inspire them to do more multipitches and pass the knowledge to more passionate climbers in future so that the art of multipitches climbing I’ve learn throughout the years will not fade on my hands.
Sigh… I really don’t know how much more abuse my fingers and shoulder can take before they scream again calling for a rest… But if they do, I don’t know how long I would be resting again this time… I really hope multipitches climbing within the group can continue to shine and this Takun experience can inspire them into doing more multipitches climbing. And also as their first step into higher climbing in future…
I love climbing… I promised myself that I won’t give up so easily... But everytime I felt pain on my fingers, the idea of taking a long rest came into my mind… And tears start running through my eyes…
If I have to rest again, It’s going to be another long rest… It’s a reality that hurts. And I have to accept it.
Thanks for reading, IF there is anyone reading it.
Have a nice day ahead…
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